Impressions.
Posted: Thu Feb 08, 2007 2:18 pm
As some might know, I and the family have just returned from visiting Greece....and the US...and Germany....and Singapore thrown in to keep the marriage intact. Managed to meet a couple of Pothosians en route and the second, Efstathios, asked me in a PM what were my impressions of what I had seen.
Now, this maybe slightly off topic, but, I figured why not share? This might take the form of an occasional observation that others might feel free to comment on – lord knows, I will! I'll begin with one of the last visited: Thermopylae.
As is well known, the major National Road cuts this battlefield into two. The hill for the climactic annihilation is still apparent, though overgrown, as is what remains of the Phokian wall. It is difficult to picture the sea at its base two and a half millennia ago.
What struck me was the monument: a marvellous "Leonidas" and a later addition for the men of Thespiae. Too, there is a clear description of the ancient site and rendition of the battle on the well written signs near the monument provided by the relevant Greek Ministry. One can't help but wonder at what took place here.
Although clear, the government plaques seem to gloss over several things. First is that – from memory – there is constant reiteration of the "300". There were, in fact, some 7,000. Although known to myself, an American at the site – who was there via Pressfield's "Gates of Fire" – was surprised to find that there were more than the three hundred on the final day and that some 7,000 occupied the pass at the beginning.
The second is the utter failure (unless I missed it – I was tired at the end of a long day jousting with maniacs pretending to be drivers) to record the fact that somewhere in the order of six hundred or more Greek slaves also died over those three days. These were the Helots who served the Homoioi. It occurs that such a mention might not sit well with the Spartan legend – cultivated despite the repeated selling off of the Ionian Greeks for Persian Darics and continued today it seems – of being the "preserver of the freedom of the Hellenes". I could, though, be over cynical?
Lastly, the plaque – with not a single equivocation – records that this brave Spartan led band of resisters registered severe casualties amongst Xerxes' army numbering 1,700,000. It seems not to have occurred to anyone that – as I remarked to my American friend after a quick calculation on my phone – were such an army to march three or four abreast through Thrace and Greece, its tail will still have been waiting its turn to cross the Hellespont as its head reached Thermopylae.
Now, this maybe slightly off topic, but, I figured why not share? This might take the form of an occasional observation that others might feel free to comment on – lord knows, I will! I'll begin with one of the last visited: Thermopylae.
As is well known, the major National Road cuts this battlefield into two. The hill for the climactic annihilation is still apparent, though overgrown, as is what remains of the Phokian wall. It is difficult to picture the sea at its base two and a half millennia ago.
What struck me was the monument: a marvellous "Leonidas" and a later addition for the men of Thespiae. Too, there is a clear description of the ancient site and rendition of the battle on the well written signs near the monument provided by the relevant Greek Ministry. One can't help but wonder at what took place here.
Although clear, the government plaques seem to gloss over several things. First is that – from memory – there is constant reiteration of the "300". There were, in fact, some 7,000. Although known to myself, an American at the site – who was there via Pressfield's "Gates of Fire" – was surprised to find that there were more than the three hundred on the final day and that some 7,000 occupied the pass at the beginning.
The second is the utter failure (unless I missed it – I was tired at the end of a long day jousting with maniacs pretending to be drivers) to record the fact that somewhere in the order of six hundred or more Greek slaves also died over those three days. These were the Helots who served the Homoioi. It occurs that such a mention might not sit well with the Spartan legend – cultivated despite the repeated selling off of the Ionian Greeks for Persian Darics and continued today it seems – of being the "preserver of the freedom of the Hellenes". I could, though, be over cynical?
Lastly, the plaque – with not a single equivocation – records that this brave Spartan led band of resisters registered severe casualties amongst Xerxes' army numbering 1,700,000. It seems not to have occurred to anyone that – as I remarked to my American friend after a quick calculation on my phone – were such an army to march three or four abreast through Thrace and Greece, its tail will still have been waiting its turn to cross the Hellespont as its head reached Thermopylae.